“My husband is on a no-salt diet – he can’t drink soft water.”

Well, if he’s on a no salt diet, he will be dead soon, because you can’t live without salt.

“I’m on a low sodium diet and soft water makes my blood pressure go up.”

OK, I can address that, but since I am not a doctor, I shall defer to one of Americans’ Respected  Medical Institutions – namely Mayo Clinic.  These are their words, not mine:

Regular tap water contains very little sodium. The amount of sodium a water softener adds to tap water depends on the “hardness” of the water. Hard water contains large amounts of calcium and magnesium. Some water-softening systems replace calcium and magnesium ions with sodium ions. The higher the concentration of calcium and magnesium, the more sodium needed to soften the water. Even so, the added sodium doesn’t add up to much.

An 8-ounce (237-milliliter) glass of softened water generally contains less than 12.5 milligrams of sodium, which is well within the Food and Drug Administration’s definition of “very low sodium.” Thus, it’s unlikely that sodium in softened water would pose a risk for most healthy people.

However, if you’re on a very low-sodium diet and you’re concerned about the amount of sodium in softened water, you may want to consider a water-purification system that uses potassium chloride instead. Another option is to soften only the hot water and use unsoftened cold water for drinking and cooking.

In any case, it’s important to keep in mind that the majority of sodium in an average person’s diet comes from table salt and processed foods. Thus, the best way to decrease sodium in your diet is by putting away the saltshaker and cutting back on processed foods.

From Sheldon G. Sheps, M.D. of MayoClinic.org

So while it is not likely that soft water will increase your sodium intake significantly, I will add two important reasons NOT to drink softened water:

1. It just doesn’t taste good!  Yes, that is my opinion, but I am not alone in that thinking.  The water does taste different and I don not like it!
2. There are a whole lot of other contaminants in the water supply that aren’t good for you that a water softener cannot remove – like Chlorine, Chloramine, THM, TCE, PCB, pesticides and chemicals.

Solution:  I drink water that is purified by reverse osmosis, which is the best way known to man to remove the largest spectrum of contaminants from the water.  Since reverse osmosis or RO was developed to desalinate sea water, it effectively removes the sodium as well.  That leaves you with chemical-free, sodium free, healthy, great-tasting water that you can rely on.  To those who say, that the minerals in the water are good for you and you should not remove them – what about the chemicals that aren’t good for you?  Listen to this:  WATER IS NOT A SIGNIFICANT SOURCE OF MINERALS!  You get minerals from your food and supplements.  Don’t obfuscate the issue.  However, if you are concerned with keeping you water mineralized, we now have re-mineralization filters that do just that after the RO process.  You can have your cake and eat it too!

What is THE MOST IMPORTANT WATER TREATMENT METHOD?  Some people will guess that it is water softening or reverse osmosis, maybe ozonation or ultraviolet, but the fact of the matter is that the most important water treatment method is amazingly simple and woefully under-applied or misapplied.  That method is simple filtration,  which is commonly known as the mechanical or physical operation used for the separation of solids from fluids (liquids or gases) by interposing a medium through which only the fluid can pass.  Filtration has been around for thousands of years, and by now you would think that such a simple technology would be properly applied… but it is still not well understood.

I’d like to take a little time to explain what works and what doesn’t work, and why, when it comes to filtration.  First of all, let’s break filtration down into two types:  (1) Point-of-entry filtration (that means your whole house); and (2) Point-of-use filtration which would be a sink or a fridge.

Point-of-Use Filtration (POU)  is usually for a kitchen sink or maybe a refrigerator and typically utilizes a 5 micron filter for sediment pre-filtration.  Sediment depth filters are generally made of spun polypropylene and in reality, are gradient density filters in that the outer layers trap larger particles so that the inside layers are more efficient. They are often called “melt blown” or “spun poly” filters. These filters are generally used in reverse osmosis pre-treatment, food and beverage, microelectronics, and many other applications. Made out of 100% pure polypropylene, a spun polypropylene filter is suitable for any potable water application, including high-purity. There are no glues, binders or additives that can cause side effects in water processing applications.  However, you wouldn’t want to use a Spun Poly filter for a point-of-entry or whole house application, because it would plug too quickly.

Point-of-Entry Filtration (POE) is typically for filtration for a whole house or business and the fact of the matter is that there are two types of homes or businesses:  (1) Those that have POE Filtration; and (2) those that need it!  There is no question that any home or business can reap great benefits from having a Point-Of-Entry Filtration System.  Why?  Even on city water, there is sand, silt, grit and other things that can cause problems with icemakers, toilet internals, faucets and appliances like washers and water dispensers.  If you have a water softener, you can even extend its’ life and prevent unnecessary service by simply having a pre-filter ahead of it.  There is probably not a single instance where simple filtration does not provide substantial benefits.

So, that bring up three questions:

1. What type of filter is best?
2. What size is best?
3. What micron rating is best?

This is where it gets dicey.  The easy part is deciding what type of filter is best.  As mentioned a Spun Poly Sediment Depth Filter is not appropriate in this case, but some people use string-wound filters for a couple or reasons (1) they are the lowest cost filters; and (2) you don’t have to change them very often… OF COURSE YOU DON”T BECAUSE THEY DON’T TRAP AS MUCH SEDIMENT AS A PLEATED FILTER!  Look, string wound filters are better than no filters and they are inexpensive, but a pleated filter has more surface area, traps more sediment, sand, silt and grit than any string-wound filter and are cleanable and reusable.  Even though a pleated filter has a higher price, it costs less than any string wound filter because it works so much better and you can re-use it after cleaning four or five times.  Hands down, a pleated filter is the best choice and while there are many brands of pleated filters, there can only be ONE BEST PLEATED FILTER and that is Harmsco.  They are made in the USA with more media than any other filter and more robust media than any other filter.

That raises the question as to what size is best.  It’s a simple answer.  For any POE filtration, you would want to use a 4.5″ x 10″ housing at a minimum (that would be for a small home), but it is always best to use a 4.5″ x 20″ housing for better flow rates.  Don’t go too small – a 2.5″ filter, even if it is 20″ in length is too small for a whole house. Stay with 4.5 inch by 20 inch housings when you are treating a whole house for sediment.

Insofar as micron rating, it is very site specific.  In many cases, a 5 micron filter works great, but in other cases it works best with a 10 or 20 micron filter because you may have larger particles to trap.  It’s a good idea to start with a 10 micron filter and then see how effective that is.  You can go up or down in micron size, based upon that or go up if it plugs too quickly.

Step-down filtration is also quite effective (pictured at the right).  That is where you might start with a 20 micron filter, followed by a 10 micron filter followed by a 5 micron filter.  This would be utilized when you have sand, silt and sediment in large quantities.

In conclusion, when dealing with whole house filtration, use larger filters such as a 4.5″ x 20″ housing, use a pleated cartridge and make sure you use the correct micron size for your application.

John asks:

I have a water softener and a pre-filter ahead of my Reverse Osmosis System.  How often should I change the filters?

The Water Doctor replied:

Water quality varies so much that it is impossible to give you an accurate answer.  For example, some water is more turbid and contains more solids.  Water that looks substantially the same could plug a filter in a month… or a year.  The thing is, you don’t want to wait until the filter is plugged, you want to changed it before solids or chlorine comes through.  On hard water, I have seen membranes last six months to a year and on soft water, they can easily last three to five years.

In my own personal case, I have one of THESE in my home.

I test the water hardness and chlorine levels on a weekly basis and these the RO for TDS levels multiple times a week.  The only way you can know if your membrane needs changed is by testing the TDS and when it drops to below 80% rejection, it is time to change it.  By testing the softness of the water, you can know how well it is working and adjust it to meet your needs.

In many cases you can change the RO Filters on a yearly basis, if you have soft water and proper pre-filtration, but it never hurts to do it more often.  After all, this is your drinking water we are talking about.

For whole-house filtration, the absolute best filtration is a 5 micron “Pleated” filter like THIS.

At the very minimum, if you have a water softener, you should at least have a test kit to test the hardness, like this:

http://www.uswatersystems.com/water-testing/diy-water-testing/hardness-field-analysis-test-kit-2403.html

It is good for 50 tests, so if you test your water once a week, it will last a year and then the testing chemicals can be replenished HERE.

THe professional grade test kit includes tests for pH, iron, chlorine and TDS, but you can also buy a TDS meter HERE.  Everyone that has a reverse osmosis system should have a TDS meter and this is a professional-grade model that lasts for years.  You wouldn’t dream of having a furnace or air conditioner without a thermostat – why on earth would you have a reverse osmosis system without a TDS meter?  Think about that!

HERE is the LINK to all of our water testing products.

Question: I bought a 5 stage RO system from you guys a few years ago and I am finding some information that is a little concerning about RO systems. First, they lack essential minerals that are necessary to our health. Also, the water is very acidic water. Lastly, I read that the plastic membrane leaches toxic chemicals in the water. Not just BPA but other toxins from the plastic. Could you clarify some of these for me.

I am interested in any types of filters you have that would be used with the system that I bought that would add minerals back into the water and make the water more alkaline.

Thank You! — Shea

Answer:   

It is true that RO systems take out minerals, but using the words “essential minerals” is very misleading and most of the places you read this are from competing products…  from companies who don’t sell RO and try and exploit this to their advantage.  There are several companies spreading fear to consumers that Reverse Osmosis water will harm their health… and you can fool some of the people some of the time!

First of all, reverse osmosis removes the largest spectrum of contaminants of any water treatment process, so if you elect NOT TO use RO, you will have to settle for water that is LESS PURE.    Are you OK with more cehemicals and more contaminants in the water?

Secondly, water is not a SIGNIFICANT SOURCE of minerals.  It is a fallacy to think that you can get even a small amount of minerals a day from the water you drink.  If you drank a 55 gallon drum a day, you would probably get enough minerals, but of course you would die from Hyponatremia, which is caused by drinking too much water.  You typically get minerals from your diet and supplements, especially foods that are high in calcium, magnesium and potassium… and you even need sodium.  You will die without it.  There are many “essential minerals” but they are not typically found in our drinking water.  These minerals include the following:

• sodium
• chloride
• potassium
• calcium
• phosphorus
• magnesium
• sulfur
• iron
• zinc
• iodine
• selenium
• copper
• manganese
• fluoride
• chromium
• molybdenum
• nickel
• vanadium
• cobalt

Some of this minerals are needed in just minuscule amounts, but to even suggest that water is a significant source of this is just plain silly.  It is my advice that you should consult a health professional as how you can best get the minerals your body needs.

On the question about leaching: You cannot leach BPA if it does not exist in the product, and our products contain NO BPA!  All of our products are NSF, WQA and/or FDA Approved for being Non-Leaching.  If you want to read more about alkaline water, this is a useful site:

http://www.purative.com/2012/01/scientists-say-dont-be-duped-by-alkaline-water/

We also have some information on our other blog posts:

http://www.uswatersystems.com/blog/2012/06/dont-confuse-ph-with-alkalinity/

http://www.uswatersystems.com/blog/2012/06/alkaline-ionized-water-filters-most-are-bogus/

http://www.uswatersystems.com/blog/2013/04/the-alkaline-vs-alkalinity-battle-rages/

If you still want to remineralize you water, we have this:

http://www.uswatersystems.com/remineralization-filter-kit-with-mounting-bracket.html

Don’t be duped by some of the small in-line filters – they do very little.  You need a substantial filter to remineralize.

First of all, before you decide to remove chloramine, you need to understand what chloramine is.

Chloramines are formed when a municipality adds a mixture of chlorine and approximately 20% ammonia to the water supply.  Many municipalities are changing to chloramine from chlorine because the chloramine is more stable as it does not evaporate like chlorine, even if it is a weaker disinfectant.  Additionally, chlorine produces disinfection byproducts (DBPs) known as trihalomethanes (THM’s) which are VOCs (volatile organic chemicals) that are highly carcinogenic.

Many people erroneously believe that chloramine has fewer disinfection byproducts, however new studies show that  iodacetic acid is a chloramine DBP that could be even more insidious than THM’s.  Chloramines also are linked to increased lead and copper corrosion which can result in elevated levels of lead and cooper in water to which chloramine has been added.  Additionally, when combined with fluoride, the corrosion level increases.  It is also a fact that chloramine degenerates rubber and other parts in plumbing systems, ice makers, washers, dishwasher, toilets and sink faucets, to name but a few.

Additionally, ingestion is not the primary route of exposure to chloramine.  Inhalation and dermal contact are likely the prime routes of exposure to chloramine.  This would mean that if you truly want to remove or reduce chloramine, you would have to do it for the whole house and not just the drinking water.  By the time, the chloramine in the water reaches your home, it has accomplished it’s job as a disinfectant, and if you really want high quality water and are concerned with the health risks associated with chloramine exposure, you will certainly want to consider how best to reduce it.

Notice, I didn’t say “remove” it?   There reasons I said “reduce” and not “remove” is that it’s probably impossible to remove all of the chloramine and it’s associated compounds.  However you can substantially reduce it with proper treatment.  If someone says they can remove it all, you might want to run as fast as you can.

Before we discuss what “proper treatment” is, we are going to list some other websites where you can read about chloramine:

• Citizens Concerned About Chloramine
• Byproduct of Water-Disinfection Process Found to be Highly Toxic
• Natural News – The Poisoning of America’s Water Supplies
• EPA – Chloramines in Drinking Water
• CDC – Disinfection With Chlorine & Chloramine

  That should give you a couple of days of reading… if you so desire.  Google “chloramine” and you will get about 512,000 more results.  By the way, did you know that chloramine kills fish?  It’s a fact!

OK, let’s get into what is the best way to remove… actually “substantially reduce,” chloramine.  The method is called “Prolonged Contact Catalytic Granular Activated Carbon Filtration” with the emphasis on “prolonged contact.”

There are a couple of ways to use the Catalytic Carbon – (1) is in a Cartridge Filter such as one to the right; and (2) a pressure vessel with carbon inside it (pictured on the left).  The problem is that a cartridge filter that is 4.5″ x 20″  will flow a maximum of 1.5 gallons per minute (GPM).  A pressure vessel that is 13″ x 54″ in diameter will flow 13 GPM but will remove the greatest amount of chloramine at below 10 GPM.  The slower you can run the water through the catalytic carbon, the better you will remove the chloramine.  If you are really concerned about chloramine, then you might want to use two tanks to prolong that contact and increase the removal ability.

If you just want to remove chloramine from just your drinking water, you may want to use a 4.5″ x 20″ Cartridge Filter at a sink where you only flow 1.5 GPM.  That’s also good for removing chloramine for the fish, but it does nothing to remove the chloramine in the shower or bath and of course, it doesn’t protect the plumbing an appliances.  A Backwashing Catalytic Carbon Filter like the US Water Fusion Superfilter is usually the choice for a whole house.

Frequently, chloramine exists in conjunction with fluoride which also has many deleterious effects.  I have discussed the effects of fluoride in a previous BLOG.  So, if you want to reduce BOTH chloramine and fluoride, then you would need something like our Fusion Ultimate Superfilter.

Finally, if you really are serious about removing chlorine, chloramine, fluoride and a host of other chemicals from the water then you could follow up the Fusion Ultimate Superfilter with a Whole-House Reverse Osmosis System.  

Photo credit – Chloramine Info Center

At US Water Systems, we have over a dozen Certified Water Specialists on Staff.  You might not find twelve total with our top 10 competitors.  We built the back-end of the business BEFORE we built the sales team.  Our employees have nearly 200 years of combined water treatment experience, and when you have a problem, you will find comfort in talking with someone who has “been there, done that!”  Then, there is this:

“I purchased a water softener from a company in Chicago, and have the WORST customer service I’ve ever experienced. [I wished] I would have just bought it from you.

The 3/4 in water flow meter between the control head and the bypass valve has been cracked since the day it was installed. They want me to purchase a new one, take a picture(?) of the defective / leaking one, and return it then hope for a refund. They also charge a bunch more than you do. Can I exchange it for one at your facility, or am I hosed and have to deal with where I purchased it?  I look forward to hearing form you.”

We get complaints almost every day about the company whose name we withheld above.  Maybe we shouldn’t withhold it.  Maybe we should alert others about them,  At any rate, we also get a lot of calls from customers who have bought products from other companies who don’t answer their phones for tech support.  Many of these people call us and pretend to be our customers so that they can get tech support.  This is not just an occasional thing, but is now happening many times each day, as our online reputation for excellent service spreads.

While we try and help people, we have to respectfully decline to provide them with tech support, when they paid the other company the money that they want us to earn.  My advice is to return the product and buy one from us… or maybe we should have a 900 number and charge for tech support for people who didn’t buy from us.  At this rate, we could make a lot of money!

Look, we aren’t perfect – we make mistakes – but you can get us 7 days a week, and we make up for what mistakes we make.  We live by the mantra: “Every company makes mistakes.  It’s how they respond to those mistakes that diferentiates good companies from bad companies.” 

If you are thinking of buying any water treatment equipment from any company, I would suggest that you do a couple of things:

1. Call them during their business hours – tell them you need tech support and see how long you have to wait;
2. What are their hours?  If they close at 5 PM or 6 PM, odds are you won’t get any service when you  need it;
3. Are they available on the weekends?  If not, how can you really expect to get technical help?
4. Ask how many Certified Water Specialists they have on staff.  Better yet, look it up online at www.WQA.org.

There are so many companies selling on the internet, and some of them are reputable, but some people see it as a way to make an easy buck.  Some work out of their homes and garages – you would be surprised at what companies do that.  Some are not so much dishonest as they are incompetent.  At any rate, it’s your money and your life, but I just think you deserve a company that is committed to you and your water as much as US Water Systems.  If you find one, that’s good, but if not, you can always come to us.

I received an e-mail today which said:

Hey Mark,

After reading a bunch of your info I realized, you guys keep refering your competitors very often. Just curious, who you so worried about??

Sincerely,
An Educated Consumer

To which I replied:

The sentence you wrote first is a fragment, but I am going to assume that you meant “After reading a bunch of your info I realized, you guys keep referring to your competitors very often.” 

Who are we so worried about?

An uneducated consumer!  If you are really an educated consumer, you should have figured that out.

We are worried about consumers being tricked by companies telling lies or half-truths. 

We are the Guardians of the Galaxy! 

I guess he/she was puzzled by my response.  This was their response:

I am not sure how to respond to your answer. My question was a legitimate question. I was hoping for a serious answer. You are the owner correct?

If you are reader, you know that I am sometimes funny, sometimes sarcastic and always passionate about our customers, so I wrote this back:

It is a legitimate question – I agree!

I am serious!  That’s exactly who we are concerned about – The Consumer!  What is not serious about that? 

Now, I admit that Guardians of the Galaxy wasn’t serious, but can’t we have fun too?

BTW, you know who I am, but I have no clue who you are as you can hide behind the anonymity of the web, so excuse me if I have my doubts.

Look, we are going to tell the truth here and maybe be funny at times, tongue-in-cheek at other times, but the consumer is our number one concern.  We care about people and their water and don’t like to see people taken advantage of.  If my writing style offends you, I am sorry, but let me remind you that you don’t have to read it!  I get lots of e-mails every day from consumers who were tricked, lied to or just plain mislead by other companies.  We are not the Guardians of the Galaxy – but we wish we could be!

Stay thirsty my friends!

Photo Credit: From the Movie Guardians of the Galaxy via Wikipedia

For about the last ten years salt-free water softeners have become the dream of many marketing companies.   It’s not like they haven’t always been out there – I’ve been in the water treatment business for 42 years and I have seen plenty of these types of companies come and go – but they are now here en mass.

I have often wondered why it seems that there are so many of these companies that have popped up lately.  It seems to me that it started with Easy Water, who at one time called their system a saltfree softener but later had the conscience to change the name to a salt free conditioner.  However, today if you Google Salt Free Softeners, you will come up with the following:

• Pelican Water Systems – America’s #1 Salt-Free Softeners
• Aquasana – SimplySoft Salt-Free Water Softener
• EvoClear – EvoClear Salt Free Softener
• Futura – Salt-Free Anti-Scale Water Softeners
• NuvoH2O – Get Softer Better Water – Guaranteed

There are also many other companies selling what are purported to be “salt-free water softeners” but these are the ones that consumers ask us about the most.  To be clear, the problem I have with these companies that they call their products “Salt-Free Water Softeners” when the definition of “Soft Water” is this:

• Hard water is water that has high mineral content (in contrast with “soft water”). – Wikipedia

• Water that does not contain high levels of dissolved solids such as minerals that make it hard to lather. Soft water lathers easily. – Black’s Law Dictionary

• Water containing little or no dissolved salts of calcium or magnesium, especially water containing less than about 85 parts per million of calcium carbonate.  – Your Dictionary

• Water that is free of magnesium or calcium salts. – Engineering Dictionary

• Water that is not hard (does not contain salts that interfere with the formation of lather with soap).  – Webster’s Dictionary

• Water lacking those ions, such as Mg2+ and Ca2+, that form insoluble salts with fatty acids, so that ordinary soap will lather easily in it. – MediLexicon 

• Softened water is “any water which has been processed in some manner to reduce the total hardness to 17.1 milligrams per liter (mg/L) or parts per million (ppm) (1.0 grain per gallon) or less expressed as calcium carbonate equivalent.” – Water Quality Association

So, it is widely established by multiple sources that “soft water” is water that is low on dissolved minerals.  Yet, none of the above-mentioned companies remove the minerals.  Let’s read what they say about the minerals:

• Pelican –  “Leaves in beneficial minerals”
• Aquasana – “prevents minerals from binding and forming scale”
• EvoClear – “Hard water (calcium and magnesium) is transformed into microscopic nano crystals that are suspended in the process.  When the calcium and magnesium become suspended, the hard water is unable to form scale or lime scale deposits while it travels through your home.”
• Futura –   “When water comes into contact with the catalytic surface of the media, hard water agents calcium (CaCO3) and magnesium become attached to the ceramic granules and are instantly converted into a scale resistant crystalline form.”
• NuvoH2O – “Our CitraCharge formula stops the mineral ions from causing hard water problems by making the typically troublesome minerals stay apart in the water, so instead of attaching to the metal in the pipes the water passes through. Since they’re bound, those minerals also freely wash away from your body, hair, dishes, pipes, fixtures, and appliances.“

It is surprising to me that they call it softened water but then admit they don’t take out the calcium and magnesium?  How can it be softened water when the minerals are not removed?  Some companies call it “Naturally softened water” which is pure unadulterated sales hyperbole which has no basis in fact.  Naturally softened water falls from the sky and is called RAIN!  Try a soap test with any of them and compare it to soft water – you will see the suds form and stay in soft water but not in the salt-free systems.

We get dozens of calls everyday asking us about this.  We also have a salt-free system (Green Wave) but we call it a conditioner, not a softener because it does not soften water.  It does condition it, but most of the benefits that you get with softened water are not benefits you will get with a salt-free system.  Things like spot-free glasses and dishes, whiter, brighter and softer clothes, and reduced soap usage are not benefits you receive with salt-free systems.  The main benefit is the reduction of scale.

So the question is, why do these companies persist in calling these “salt-free water softeners?”  Let me attempt to answer this.  The “baby boomers” are getting up in years and don’t like carrying salt, and it has become en vogue to ban softeners in some areas.  This is America – the land of opportunity and marketers see an opportunity to sell a salt-free softener, but if they called it a conditioner, would it be as easy to sell?  I doubt it!  In my opinion, the use of the word softener instead of conditioner is an attempt to deceive the consumer.  At the very least, it confuses them.

Earlier, I mentioned that these companies are “Marketing Companies.”  Do they have any Certified Water Specialists on staff?  Usually not.  Their focus is on salt-free systems.  Whatever you problem, a salt-free softener is your solution.  On the other hand, US Water System is a Water Treatment Company – we have nearly 10,000 products because no one product is the solution to everything.  If it filters, we call it a filter.  If it produces ozone, we call it an ozonator.  If it softens, we call it a softener and if it conditions, we call it a conditioner.  We don’t call a squirrel an elephant.  We call them what they are.

We are not a marketing company – we are a full service water treatment company with a dozen Certified Water Specialists on staff, the least of whom has at least seven years experience.  We have sales and tech support seven days a week and we are all about finding the right solution for your water, whether it be salt-free or not.  The fact is, a salt-free conditioner may or may not be right for you, but we can help you decide.  However, a salt-free softener is never right for you… because it doesn’t exist!

Personally, I think it’s time for the US Justice Department and State Attorneys General to investigate these claims and put a stop to them if they are deemed deceptive!  I had someone ask me last week “What company are you so worried about?”  I’m not worried about any company in particular.  I am worried about the consumers being mislead!

We have a lot of customers who ask if our reverse osmosis systems are made in America.  We explain that our Galaxy and Aquapurion series are mostly assembled in the USA but they do not use all Made in America parts.  We also explain that our American Revolution RO system is made in America with 100% made in America Parts.  Here’s the deal:  The American Revolution RO is the only reverse osmosis system that is Made in America with 100% American Made Parts.  THE ONLY ONE!

There are websites that say Made in America and you can zoom in and see that their tank is Made in Taiwan!   Others say Assembled in America.  What they leave out is … with Made in China Parts.  I would like to give some of these websites a pass and say that they don’t know any better, but I have talked to they and I believe they are simply trying to deceive you – the customer.

It’s hard to find tanks, brackets, filter housings, membrane housings, automatic shut-off valves, fittings and faucets made in the USA, but we did… and we have the only 100% all Made in USA reverse osmosis system.  Period!

One website says “Proudly built in the USA”  but it is obvious that it has a lot of Chinese or Taiwanese parts.

Another one says “Made in USA” and it obviously isn’t made with US parts.  Maybe you don’t know that, but water treatment professionals know it.  They are really hoping you don’t, so that they can make a sale to you under false pretenses!  Of course, those same guys copied a lot of our website several years ago, so they know little about ethics.

Look, why lie?  We don’t tell people that our Galaxy and Aquapurion systems are Made in USA.  The Aquapurion does use All-American Filters and the Membrane, but it’s not all Made in USA. The American Revolution RO is Made in the USA – 100% – Totally – Everything – End of Story!

My advise is “Just Tell the Truth!”

If you are looking at any RO system, ask if it is made in the USA.  If the “other company” says yes, give us a call and we will tell you the truth.  Most of the time, it is not!

Not everyone cares, and if you don’t then look at our Galaxy or Aquapurion Reverse Osmosis Systems, but if you demand “MADE in USA” for your RO systems, there is only one – the US Water American Revolution RO!

Maybe the ways to end all this is to require a seal of approval; from the government or another sanctioning body validating your claims?  Thoughts?

I get that question a lot, and while beer is 91 to 97% water, the answer is “It Depends!”

It depends upon a number of factors, such as (1) where you are geographically located; (2) whether you have well or city water; (3) whether your water source uses chloramine or chlorine; and (4) what type of beer you want to brew. Let me explain these four factors:

GEOGRAPHIC LOCATION – Water quality varies dramatically depending upon where you are located.  In some parts of the country the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) levels are low and in other areas they are high.  Depending upon your TDS level and what type of beer you are trying to brew would lead you to choose different technologies to treat your water.  For example, if your TDS level was over 300 to 500 ppm, and depending upon what type of beer you were trying to brew, you might want to choose reverse osmosis to lower your TDS levels.

There are exceptional beers brewed with both High and Low TDS levels, but the TDS levels cannot be considered in a vacuum.  pH and other contaminants also need to be considered.  Consider this: RO removes about 97 percent of sodium nitrate from the water. Nitrates reduce to nitrites in solution, which are toxic to yeast.  Also, pH in conjunction with TDS levels have to be considered, as “mash pH” is critical to the brewing process.

WATER SOURCE – Water typically comes from a municipality, a well or a surface source.  How you treat each one varies depending upon the contaminants found.  Therefore a water test is paramount when considering what type of treatment to apply, because the treatment regimen for surface water, well water and municipal water is dramatically different.  Total alkalinity, bicarbonate levels and other contaminants will affect the brewing process.

CHLORINE OR CHLORAMINE – If you have municipal water, it may be high or low in TDS, but it also may have chlorine, which is toxic to yeast or chloramine, which is like “chlorine on steroids” because it is like the Energizer Bunny in that it keeps going and going and going.  Chloramine is made with chlorine and ammonia which results in the chlorine lasting almost forever.  Chlorine is bad, but can be overcome with intense heat which causes evaporation.  Chloramine is very resistant to evaporation, and that means that it will kill your yeast… or at least maim it! Chlorine and Chloramine are both removed by “prolonged contact carbon filtration” but chloramine requires “catalytic carbon” to remove it.  Should you use granular activated carbon (GAC) or Catalytic Carbon?  Let me answer that question by saying that even if your municipality does not use chloramine today, the likelihood is that it will “tomorrow.”  Use Catalytic GAC!

TYPE OF BEER – If you are brewing a stout or an IPA or a lager, you will likely need different levels of pH, bicarbonate, alkalinity and/or TDS.  We don’t try and tell you what mixture works the best – we just supply equipment that enables you to achieve any level of water quality you desire.

So, what type of water treatment is best for brewing beer?  There is no pat answer.  In some cases, it may involve micron filtration followed by catalytic granular activated carbon prolonged contact filtration and in other cases it may involve reverse osmosis with addition of pH acids and brewing salts, such as calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, calcium chloride, magnesium sulfate and sodium bicarbonate.  These are often called “Brewing Salts” and are essential to brewers who want the best possible product.

In conclusion, a 5 micron filter and a catalytic carbon filter are ideal in many areas, but the most sophisticated brewers use that followed by reverse osmosis and pH adjustment followed by the introduction of “brewing salts.”  Good Luck!

Photo courtesy of Two Deep Brewing Company.

My short and direct answer is NO!

We do not recommend installers… and especially plumbers.  Most plumbers work under the idea that they need to bill you at least $500 an hour, including parts and labor.  Some plumbers are at $600 to $800 per hour.  Of course, you can’t do that charging for labor only, so when they show up, the usually say something like “Oh my God, you didn’t buy that did you?”  Then they proceed to try to sell you their water treatment system (which is always an inferior system and one they generally know little about).  All they know is that they get a commission for selling it and their boss is happy that they are billing you at $500 to $800 per hour.

Plumbers are also famous to us for installing equipment backwards and breaking parts, because they won’t (or can’t) read the directions.  Our systems are simple to install – we have videos, manuals and tech support 7 days a week.  We have the least problems with installation from homeowners who care about their work.  However, if you are not the mechanical type and want someone to install a system, I suggest calling a Handyman Service.  If you Google “Handyman Service” you will have a multitude of options.  Hire someone who is not afraid to call us and ask a few questions.

Don’t get me wrong.  Plumbers are necessary and I personally know many good plumbers, but most are not that good and are trained to “sell you stuff” and bill at $500 to $800 per hour.  All of the big name brand plumbers in your area are likely of that type.  “Mom-and-pop” plumbers are not so much like that.  The guy who does my HVAC is a “one-man-band” but he gives me great service and has saved me thousands of dollars.  When my neighbor had his heat pump go out, he asked for his name.  The other companies quoted from $6,600.00 to $8,800.00 for the job that he did for $3,600.00!

Cheap is not always better, but getting ripped off is not good either. You need to remember that when you buy from US Water Systems, you are buying direct from the manufacturer and cutting out the middlemen.  So, if a plumber has something for close to the same price, it is generally dramatically inferior.

There are many reason, why you may not want to hire a plumber to install your water treatment system, however, the best payoff in not hiring a plumber is not having to see their buttcrack.

Some people call it iron.  Others call it rust, but if it produces a brownish-orange stain, it’s iron.  Let me start by saying that there is “NO ONE BEST WAY!”  How to best remove iron depends upon a number of other  issues and levels of certain contaminants.  To effectively remove iron you will need to apply the best method for your application.  In order to determine the best method, we will have to have the answers to the following questions:

• What type of iron (Ferrous or Ferric) do you have and what is the level of iron?
• Is iron reducing (IRB) or sulfur reducing bacteria (SRB) present?
• Are there any competing contaminants (such as manganese or sulfur)?
• How many gallons a day will you be treating?
• What is the pressure and flow of water coming from your pressure tank?

What type of iron (Ferrous or Ferric) do you have and what is the level level of iron?  While there are technically many types of iron, for our purposes we are going to deal with basically three types:  Ferrous, Ferric and Bacterial.  In this step, we are just dealing with whether your water is ferrous or ferric.  Ferric iron is more difficult to remove in most instances, but both can be removed successfully.  If your water is clear when it is drawn into a glass and then gradually turns color or get cloudy, it is most likely ferrous iron.  However, if it is discolored when it is drawn, it is likely ferric.

It is also vitally important that you know the level of the iron in ppm (parts per million).  The level and type of iron that you have is critical in applying the correct iron removal solution.

Is iron reducing (IRB) or sulfur reducing bacteria (SRB) present?  If you look in your toilet tanks and see a brown, reddish or dark slime and stringy, gelatinous particles, then you very well may have bacterial iron or bacterial sulfur.  You can test for this yourself with  our  BART Iron and Sulfur Reducing Bacteria Tests.   Here is some helpful information about iron and sulfur reducing bacteria:

IRON RELATED BACTERIA – Iron Bacteria presents many problems, so an accurate determination of its presence is extremely crucial to pick the appropriate treatment.  Iron Reducing Bacteria (IRB) cause aesthetic problems with the water such as taste, odor and staining of laundry and fixtures.  The most common indication of iron bacteria in the water is a reddish-brown or yellowish gelatinous slime in water tanks, faucets, toilet tanks, and plumbing. These nuisance bacteria may cause corrosion to treatment equipment, clog screens and pipes, and have a foul odor. Here are a few of the common problems associated with Iron Reducing Bacteria:

TASTES AND ODORS – Iron bacteria often produce unpleasant tastes and odors commonly reported as: “swampy,” “oily or petroleum,” “cucumber,” “sewage,” “rotten vegetation,” or “musty.” The taste or odor may be much more noticeable after the water has not been used for some time. Iron bacteria do not produce hydrogen sulfide, the “rotten egg” smell, but do create an environment where sulfur bacteria can grow and produce hydrogen sulfide… thus creating the smell.

COLOR – Iron bacteria will usually cause yellow, orange, red, or brown stains and colored water. It is also sometimes possible to see a rainbow colored, oil-like sheen on the water.

RED SLIMY DEPOSITS – Iron bacteria produce a sticky slime which is typically rusty in color, but may be yellow, brown, or grey. A “feathery,” or filamentous growth may also be seen, particularly in standing water such as in a toilet tank.

The characteristics listed above are typical of iron bacteria. However, objectionable stains, tastes, or odors may be due to other causes including iron, sulfate, hydrogen sulfide, manganese, or other nuisance organisms such as sulfur bacteria.

SULFUR REDUCING BACTERIA – Sulfur-reducing bacteria (SRB) live in oxygen-deficient environments. They break down sulfur compounds, producing hydrogen sulfide gas in the process. Hydrogen sulfide gas is foul-smelling and highly corrosive.  Of the two types, sulfur-reducing bacteria are the more common. The most obvious sign of a sulfur bacteria problem is the distinctive “rotten egg” odor of hydrogen sulfide gas. As with odors caused by iron bacteria, the sulfur smell may only be noticeable when the water hasn’t been run for several hours.  In some cases, the odor will only be present when hot water is run; this could indicate that SRBs are building up in the water heater. Blackening of water or dark slime coating the inside of toilet tank may also  indicate a sulfur bacteria problem.

Hydrogen sulfide gas produces an offensive “rotten egg” or “sulfur water” odor and taste in the water. In some cases, the odor may be noticeable only when the water is initially turned on or when hot water is used. Heat forces the gas into the air which may cause the odor to be especially offensive in a shower.

One of the many troubles with hydrogen sulfide is its strong corrosiveness to metals such as iron, steel, copper and brass. It can tarnish silverware and discolor copper and brass utensils. Hydrogen sulfide also can cause yellow or black stains on kitchen and bathroom fixtures. Coffee, tea and other beverages made with water containing hydrogen sulfide may be discolored and the appearance and taste of cooked foods can be affected. High concentrations of dissolved hydrogen sulfide also can foul the resin bed of an ion exchange water softener. When a hydrogen sulfide odor occurs in treated water (softened or filtered) and no hydrogen sulfide is detected in the non-treated water, it usually indicates the presence of some form of sulfate-reducing bacteria in the system. Water softeners provide a convenient environment for these bacteria to grow. A “salt-loving” bacteria that uses sulfates as an energy source may produce a black slime inside water softeners.

Sulfur-reducing bacteria, which use sulfur as an energy source, are the primary producers of large quantities of hydrogen sulfide. These bacteria chemically change natural sulfates in water to hydrogen sulfide. Sulfur-reducing bacteria live in oxygen-deficient environments such as deep wells, plumbing systems, water softeners and water heaters. These bacteria usually flourish on the hot water side of a water distribution system. Hydrogen sulfide gas also occurs naturally in some groundwater. It is formed from decomposing underground deposits of organic matter such as decaying plant material. It is found in deep or shallow wells and also can enter surface water through springs, although it quickly escapes to the atmosphere. Hydrogen sulfide often is present in wells drilled in shale or sandstone, or near coal or peat deposits or oil fields.  Occasionally, a hot water heater is a source of hydrogen sulfide odor. The magnesium corrosion control rod present in many hot water heaters can chemically reduce naturally occurring sulfates to hydrogen sulfide.

Are there any competing contaminants (such as manganese or sulfur)?   Not only do you need to know the level of the iron and if you have bacterial iron, but you also must know if you have manganese or sulfur in your water, and at what levels.  Manganese is generally much more difficult to remove than iron,  and hydrogen sulfide is even another animal.  If you have iron along with manganese and/or sulfur the manganese and sulfur will interfere with the iron removal so that has to be a major consideration.

How many gallons a day will you be treating?  If you have a three or four bathroom house with the average number of occupants, then you will like use 200 to 500 gallons a day.  Not a big deal.  But in some cases the need for water is a lot higher.  For example, if you have an irrigation system, you may use up to two thousand gallons of water a day… and that’s a whole another issue.  A few thousand gallons a day system has to be bigger and more robust than a system that uses just a few hundred gallons a day.  Of course, commercial systems are different from residential systems, but some extreme residential applications need commercial systems.

What is the pressure and flow of water coming from your pressure tank?  This is vitally important for two reasons (1) you want to have enough contact time to provide the “prolonged contact” necessary to remove the iron.  In most residential applications, peak flow rates are seldom reached, but in irrigation and/or high usage applications you need to be careful not to exceed the peak flow.  For example, if you have an irrigation system  that uses 12 GPM and consumes 1,500 gallons a day, you would not simply want a 12 GPM filter.  A better choice would be a 25 GPM filter… better yet – two 25 GPM filters.  Remember, it’s Prolonged Contact that makes all the difference!

So, what system is best for you?  At US Water, we gravitate to 21st Century Technology.  This does not include what we consider to be old and outdated technologies, like Manganese Greensand (Greensand Plus), and Birm, as well as most manganese dioxide medias like Pyrolox, Filox and all the medias that end in “lox” except for Katalox Light, which weighs about half of what the other manganese dioxide medias weigh.  What’s weight got to do with it?  The heavier it is, the harder it is to backwash and the more water you waste.  Katalox Light wastes about half the water Filox and Pyrolox waste and works as well… probably better!

The US Water Fusion Katalox Light Superfilter works on high amounts of iron and manganese and does not require an oxidizer.  However, it you have hydrogen sulfide, iron bacteria or sulfur bacteria, this is  not what you want to use.  That’s why it is so vitally important to do a water test to determine if you have iron or sulfur bacteria.  Katalox works on lots of iron and manganese (the caveat is that to remove high amounts of manganese, the pH should be over 8.0.  If it is not, then you will want to raise the pH with a pH Booster System.

Next, we have the inFusion Purely O2 Superfilter which utilizes catalytic carbon and oxygen to oxidize iron, manganese and sulfur. Manganese is the most difficult for this method to remove, but iron and sulfur are where it shines.  It easily handles up to 10 parts per million (ppm) of iron and 5 ppm of sulfur, but with the addition of our oxygen concentrator, which takes atmospheric air, which is 21% oxygen, and transforms it into 93% oxygen, which increases the oxidation capacity of the system and enables it to remove up to 30 ppm of iron and 30 ppm of sulfur.  Best of all it still has no consumables or chemicals.   This is by far, our most popular system.  All it does is backwash every other day for a few minutes.

Finally, we saved our oldest (and most successful system) for last.  This is our Fusion OXi-Gen Superfilter  which utilizes a proportional injection system to inject hydrogen peroxide into the water just ahead of a catalytic carbon filter.  The catalytic carbon acts as the catalyst between the iron or sulfur and the hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to completely eradicate the iron and sulfur. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is not really a chemical in the truest sense of the word.  It is composed of the elements of water – hydrogen and oxygen and it generates no disinfection by-products.  This is our most “forgiving” system in the sense that it always works.  You just adjust the amount of H2O2 used.  In msot cases, hydrogen peroxide use averages about $300 a year.  That is the only drawback – you have an annual peroxide bill, but you will have wonderful water!

This table provides a summary of what might be best applied to different situations:

Note:  Another type of iron is colloidal iron which cannot generally be removed by conventional means.  Our US Water Pulsar “Charged Media Filter”  Charged Membrane Filtration or “CMF” is manufactured with Nano Alumina Fibers that have a Zeta potential of 51 millivolts. A CMF cartridge retains bacteria, virus, cryptosporidium oocysts and even tannin with its strong Zeta Potential, but most importantly to the instant discussion is that it retains iron.  Sure, you could use it to remove all the iron, but it would plug very quickly.   So, what you need to do is remove all the iron you can by conventional methods and the use the Pulsar Charged Media Cartridge.

The other day, someone told me that because they had sulfur (rotten-egg smell) in the water that they were just going to drill a new well.  OK, maybe you will get lucky, but the odds are against you.  See, if you drill a new well, one of three (3) things will happen:

1. You will get better water;
2. You will get the same water; or
3. You will get worse water.

This is especially true if you live in an area where sulfur water is something that is common.  Two out of three of those choices are not good.  To put it another way, you have a one in three chance! If you are a gambler, that is a road to bankruptcy!  Remember this: as bad as sulfur smells, it’s not that hard to fix – in most cases!

So, you evidently have sulfur in your water – otherwise you probably wouldn’t be reading this.  You can drill a new well, but before you do that, you need to know that removing sulfur is not that difficult. However, before you try and remove the sulfur in your water, you will need to have a detailed water analysis of your water.  To remove sulfur, it has to be oxidized, and in order to do that, we need to know how many other “competing contaminants” there are that also need to be oxidized.  It is imperative that we know the level of sulfur in the water as well as the levels of iron and manganese. pH is important, and we also need to know if bacterial iron or sulfur is present.

Once we know that, we can recommend a solution and guarantee the results.  Here is the test that you need:

Deluxe Water Test

When ordering the Deluxe Water test, you need to choose the option for Hydrogen Sulfide and Iron  and Sulfur Bacteria.  Iron and manganese sometimes exist in conjunction with sulfur, so it is imperative to know EXACTLY what needs to be oxidized and what amount is in your water.

There are numerous ways to oxidize sulfur, but chlorination, aeration, BIRM, FILOX, PYROLOX, Manganese Greensand and most any other medias that ends on “lox” are not a recommended method.  OK,  if you have less than 3 ppm or iron, those methods MIGHT work for a while, but the results will most likely be unsatisfactory.  That includes our own Katalox Light media – we just don’t recommend the use of it on sulfur water.  End of story.

Some people (mistakenly) believe that open air aeration is a good way to remove sulfur.  The only way I can address that is to say it is pure fiction.  Using an open air aeration system to remove sulfur is something you should avoid.  However, if you were to add an oxygen concentrator and diffuse the oxygen bubbles (93% oxygen) it’s an entirely different story.  That kind of system would handle about any level of sulfur, however it is only available through our Engineered Solutions Division.

Here’s the log and short of how to get sulfur out of your water.  There are basically three methods, and we will address all three:

• Ozonation Oxidation Systems
• Oxygen Oxidation Systems
• Hydrogen Peroxide Oxidation Systems

Ozonation Oxidation Systems – Ozone is a potent oxidizer.  In fact, ozone is the strongest oxidizer  that is readily available for commercial or residential use (see Figure 1). It is 1.5 times stronger than chlorine and many, many times faster acting.  However, don’t automatically think ozone is a panacea for sulfur… it isn’t!   First of all, for an ozone system to be successful, it has to be adequately sized and if it is adequately sized, it will be very (extremely) expensive.  Ozone works well on sulfur concentrations of up to 30 ppm (parts per million) of sulfur, but again, the cost of such a system can easily exceed $10,000 to $15,000 for a small home.  An ozone system needs to be able to produce sufficient ozone to overcome the sulfur, and adequate contact storage capacity to supply the needs of the household.

Oxygen Oxidation Systems – Oxygen is one of our favorite ways to oxidize sulfur, but again, it depends upon what level you may have.  Our inFusion Purely O2 Chemical Free Backwashing Filter does an exceptional job at removing sulfur up to 6 ppm (parts per million) using just air and up to 25 ppm with the optional oxygen concentrator which uses 93% oxygen instead of the 21% oxygen that is in the air.  Oxygen is an exceptional oxidizer and the best part is that it is chemical free.

Hydrogen Peroxide Oxidation Systems – At US Water Systems, we were one of the pioneers into H2O2 technology over 20 years ago.  Thousands of systems later, we have the experience and technical knowledge to confidently say that “we have never had a single hydrogen peroxide system fail to work as promised.”  It’s proven technology with only one problem:  you will have an annual hydrogen peroxide bill.  You must use stabilized hydrogen peroxide because regular hydrogen peroxide degrades into just water very rapidly.  The drawback is the annual peroxide cost, which can be from $200 to $800 per year depending upon your water and usage.  However, if you have smelly water, you may think that is a small price to pay.  We have thousands of customers who will vouch for that.  Hydrogen peroxide is formed from the elements of water.

If you Google “alkaline water”, you will get about 4,250,000 results including all kinds of companies trying to sell alkaline water devices, from ionizers and re-mineralization systems to all kinds of strange things that allegedly add alkalinity to the water.  Of course, most promise amazing health benefits up to and including everlasting life (I am only half jesting).

Markus Rothkranz has a website called www.markusnews.com and at one point he used to extol the virtues of alkaline water – something he no longer endorses.  In fact, he says it is not only something he doesn’t endorse – he claims that it is bad for you… and provides scientific evidence to back it up.  This is a 30 minute video, but worthwhile if you are considering alkaline water or an ionizer.

So, there’s that.  Want more?  Molly Shea, Health Editor of Yahoo.com addresses the issue in “Can Drinking Alkaline Water Keep You Extra-Hydrated and Disease-Free?”  The short answer is NO!  In part she writes:

“Water is nature’s perfect beverage. Hydrating, calorie-free, and readily available, the simple drink is as good as it gets for ensuring proper functioning of all your body’s organs. But what if there was a different water, an even more hydrating liquid that goes farther to keep you healthy and thriving?

That’s the premise behind alkaline water, a version of H2O with a pH level higher than 7. (A pH above 7 is considered alkaline, while a pH lower than 7 is acidic — normal water typically has a pH of 7).The thinking is this: Maintaining a bodily pH level of 7.4 is key to optimum health. Because so many foods in the modern diet are considered acidic, drinking water with a higher pH than normal can help your body stay alkaline and disease-free, improving all aspects of health. Proponents call it a better form of hydration, and some drink alkaline water exclusively.

The water comes in two forms: “natural” alkaline water, gathered from areas like Hawaii’s volcanic regions, or “artificial” alkaline water, which is ionized by a machine or made by adding an alkalizing salt to normal water.

While water with extra benefits has been revered for ages, the specialty bottled water industry has boomed in just recent years. “People are drawn to something that impacts the body’s pH [levels]. Whether it’s placebo or fact, people feel that drinking alkaline water will help them get healthier,” says Richard Medina Jr., co-founder of L.A. Distributing Company, a New Age snack and beverage distributor. Even Mark Wahlberg and Puff Daddy got into the game in 2013 co-founding “Aqua Hydrate,” a brand of alkaline water that they tout as a natural hangover cure. 

But for all its celebrity sparkle and dramatic claims, can drinking alkaline water actually make you any healthier?  

What The Science Says:

As alluring as it sounds, the answer is no, says Stanley Goldfarb, MD, hydration expert and professor at the Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania. “If you drink a lot of alkaline water, all you’re going to do is pee out a huge amount of alkaline material. There really is no rationale for this,” Goldfarb explains. Yes, maintaining the right pH balance is important, but your body does that on its own — no fancy water required.

“What people need to appreciate is that the body is designed to maintain its equilibrium in the face of whatever you take in,” Goldfarb explains. “We are designed to maintain the pH of our bodies in an extraordinarily specific range. We have so many defense mechanisms to prevent an accumulation of alkaline that drinking alkaline water will have little effect.”

As for claims that alkaline water can hydrate better than normal water, delivering vitamins and minerals to your body more rapidly and efficiently — those just don’t hold up. There are no studies that prove that drinking alkaline water is any more hydrating than your average tap, filtered, or bottled water, and any claims that it does so fly in the face of hydration research, says Goldfarb. “When it comes to… whether you’re taking in acid or alkaline, it really makes no difference,” he says. 

But as much as alkaline water’s benefits have likely been overblown, so too have any potential side effects. Some warn against drinking too much alkaline water, for fear that it could lead to alkalosis — when your body’s pH level is too high, causing confusion, headaches, vomiting and more. According to Goldfarb, there’s very little chance that drinking alkaline water, even if you’re drinking it exclusively, could lead to any internal issues. “It’s not to say that you can’t overwhelm your system, but it’s rare.” That said, says Goldfarb, “if you have a disease, the answer changes, so I’m hesitant to say oh, no, drink what you want, [but in general] it won’t make a difference.”

As for whether water that’s naturally alkaline is any better than water that’s artificially alkalized, Goldfarb doesn’t see the evidence. “There’s no difference between natural and unnatural alkaline—it really doesn’t matter.” 

The Verdict:

There are some situations where the pH level of the water you consume does impact your health, Goldfarb explains. “For example, [for] some people who have kidney disease, their bodies cannot rid themselves of acid as quickly as others. If you’re prone to kidney stones, then acidity might be a problem.” A study did suggest that drinking water with a pH of 8.8 (which is more alkaline) can help relieve symptoms of acid reflux, when it’s done as part of a doctor-approved treatment plan. Those exceptions aside, swilling alkaline water won’t make much of a difference. 

If you love the taste of a certain water and have some extra money to blow, spending it on pricey aqua isn’t the worst thing you could do. Just turn a wary eye to health claims and don’t expect any magic. “

If you care, my opinion is that the water treatment technology that removes the most and widest spectrum of contaminants is reverse osmosis.  We know for a fact that removing dangerous chemicals such as Chlorine, Chloramine, Fluoride and many other contaminants is a great idea because it is good for your body.  You need to get your minerals from food and supplements because water is not a significant source of minerals anyway.

(Photo: Stocksy/Aleksandra Kovac/Yahoo)

Since July 10, the citizens of New York City have been on alert following the discovery of an outbreak of Legionnaires’ disease, a bacterial infection that spreads through water systems and can be deadly to smokers and the elderly. Already, ten people have died, 100 have tested positive for the disease, and officials think more people will be diagnosed before the outbreak is contained. For a detailed explanation of Legionnaires’ disease, symptoms ands how it is spread, you can read VOX EXPLAINERS HERE.

Legionnaires’ Disease is a form of pneumonia caused by Legionella bacteria.  The majority of the cases are caused by Legionella pneumophila.  These bacteria thrive in water temperatures between 77 degrees F and 113 degrees F, which is why cooling towers are a prime source of Legionella.  However, it can also be found in many other areas, such as evaporative coolers, nebulizers, humidifiers, whirlpool spas, water heating systems, showers, windshield washers, fountains, room-air humidifiers, ice-making machines, and misting systems typically found in grocery-store produce sections.  There is even the possibility of hospital-acquired legionella from which the principal source of infection is the drinking-water distribution system.

Mortality from Legionella can approach 30%, so it’s a horrible, killing disease.  However, the purpose of this blog is not to tell you how to treat it, but rather, how to prevent it.  That is the course of wisdom.  It should be noted that if treatment were always easy, Legionella would have been eradicated by now.  The fact of the matter is that Legionella is most deadly to older adults who may be immune compromised or who may have underlying medical conditions.

The United States Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA)  has published a white paper on treatment for Legionella  which is very informative.

There are several control methods available for disinfection of water distribution systems. These include thermal (super heat and flush), hyperchlorination, copper-silver ionization, ultraviolet light sterilization, ozonation, and instantaneous steam heating systems. Because some methods have not always proven completely successful or have not provided permanent protection from recolonization, a combination of these methods may be the most effective way of managing water systems and preventing future outbreaks.

Thermal disinfection, hyperchlorination and copper-silver ionization as well as the use of other biocides are something that we recommend you do or if you are doing these things, we recommend you continue.  We believe that it is imperative to maintain a residual in the water supply for continuous killing capability.  However, Ozonation and Ultraviolet Disinfection are viable options in the treatment to prevent Legionella.

Ultraviolet light or UV, kills Legionella by disrupting cellular DNA synthesis. A UV light sterilization system can be positioned to disinfect the incoming water, or it can be installed at a specific place in the pipe system that services a designated area. No chemical by-products are produced, and the taste and odor of water from a water distribution system containing a UV sterilizer are not affected. The UV sterilization system requires maintenance in order to prevent scale from coating the UV lamps. The system does not provide residual protection, so continuous disinfection is very important.

Ozone, which is generally created using an ozone generator, can be used to kill L. pneumophila. Ozone instantaneously inactivates Legionella; however, it has a short half-life and decomposes quickly back to oxygen. A second form of disinfection may be required in the distribution system for residual protection. Also, ozonation is more expensive than hyperchlorination, and a large amount of space is required for the air preparation equipment or oxygen tanks and contacting tank.

Conclusion:  There is no question that Ultraviolet Disinfection and/or Ozone should be part of any cooling tower treatment regimen – it just shouldn’t be the only method.  There needs to some kind of residual disinfectant and/or biocide to prevent re-contamination downstream.

US Water Systems Ozone Systems

US Water Systems Ultraviolet Disinfection Systems

Hey, I’ve got news for you – the government will let you down!  I know that shocks people who believe that “cradle-to-grave” stuff, but they will let you down – write it down and count on it!  The latest example is the incredible case of the United States Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA) who are supposed to be the guardians of our environment, dumping three million gallons (That’s 3,000,000 gallons)  of water contaminated with heavy metals and toxic sludge from the Gold King Mine, near Durango, Colorado, when an EPA cleanup crew destabilized a dam of loose rock lodged in the mine. The crew was supposed to pump out and decontaminate the sludge, but instead released it into the tiny Cement Creek. From there, it flowed into the Animas River and made its way into larger tributaries, including the San Juan and Colorado rivers.

This contamination will work its way into the Colorado River and effect the water supply for part of New Mexico, Colorado, Southern Nevada including Vegas, Phoenix, LA and down through San Diego. Hardest hit will be New Mexico, Colorado, Las Vegas and Phoenix and California some, but to a lesser effect.   The water that once was nearly clear is now a mustard color as it is contaminated with heavy metals such as arsenic, iron, lead, zinc, copper, aluminum, cadmium and others.

The immediate impact of this is apparent – fish and aquatic life will die and people who make their living from fishing, rafting and other recreational activities will lose business.  Ranchers, who depend upon the water supply for their livestock and farmers who need it for their crops stand to lose everything!  What the long-term damage may be is difficult to predict.  It doesn’t just go away, as the sediment settles and then can be washed back up with storms, rainfall and flooding.  The water from these rivers could serve up a “toxic cocktail” to anyone drinking the water for months or even years!

Some people like to sit around and lament their misfortune, but others take action.  If you are not the former,  then the news is good.  Companies like US Water Systems who have Qualified Water Engineers and Certified Water Specialists on staff can actually design water treatment systems that can remove these, and many other contaminants, from your water supply.  However, if complaining about the problem makes you feel better… by all means do it!  But, if you water better water, the the solution is just a phone call (800-608-8792) or e-mail away  (support@uswatersystems.com).

In the future, you will see more and more water problems like this and you can wait for the government to solve your problem or you can solve it today on your own.  I personally love the water quality from a home water purification systems and the peace-of-mind in knowing that me and my family are protected from contaminated water.  The technology is already in place to solve these problems and includes Filtration, Reverse Osmosis, Ultrafiltration, Ultraviolet Disinfection, Ozonation, Charged Membrane Filtration, Deionization and other processes.  If you care about your families well being, contact US Water Systems at www.USwaterSystems.com.

Photo credit:  Tom Bartles, who lives in Durango, Colorado shared these photos of the Animas River from the viewpoint of his backyard before and after the spill, via http://www.cnn.com/2015/08/10/us/colorado-epa-mine-river-spill/index.html  

At US Water Systems, we have over a dozen Certified Water Specialists on Staff.  You might not find twelve total with our top 10 competitors.  We built the back-end of the business BEFORE we built the sales team.  Our employees have nearly 200 years of combined water treatment experience, and when you have a problem, you will find comfort in talking with someone who has “been there, done that!”  Then, there is this:

“I purchased a water softener from a company in Chicago, and have the WORST customer service I’ve ever experienced. [I wished] I would have just bought it from you.

The 3/4 in water flow meter between the control head and the bypass valve has been cracked since the day it was installed. They want me to purchase a new one, take a picture(?) of the defective / leaking one, and return it then hope for a refund. They also charge a bunch more than you do. Can I exchange it for one at your facility, or am I hosed and have to deal with where I purchased it?  I look forward to hearing form you.”

We get complaints almost every day about the company whose name we withheld above.  Maybe we shouldn’t withhold it.  Maybe we should alert others about them,  At any rate, we also get a lot of calls from customers who have bought products from other companies who don’t answer their phones for tech support.  Many of these people call us and pretend to be our customers so that they can get tech support.  This is not just an occasional thing, but is now happening many times each day, as our online reputation for excellent service spreads.

While we try and help people, we have to respectfully decline to provide them with tech support, when they paid the other company the money that they want us to earn.  My advice is to return the product and buy one from us… or maybe we should have a 900 number and charge for tech support for people who didn’t buy from us.  At this rate, we could make a lot of money!

Look, we aren’t perfect – we make mistakes – but you can get us 7 days a week, and we make up for what mistakes we make.  We live by the mantra: “Every company makes mistakes.  It’s how they respond to those mistakes that diferentiates good companies from bad companies.” 

If you are thinking of buying any water treatment equipment from any company, I would suggest that you do a couple of things:

1. Call them during their business hours – tell them you need tech support and see how long you have to wait;
2. What are their hours?  If they close at 5 PM or 6 PM, odds are you won’t get any service when you  need it;
3. Are they available on the weekends?  If not, how can you really expect to get technical help?
4. Ask how many Certified Water Specialists they have on staff.  Better yet, look it up online at www.WQA.org.

There are so many companies selling on the internet, and some of them are reputable, but some people see it as a way to make an easy buck.  Some work out of their homes and garages – you would be surprised at what companies do that.  Some are not so much dishonest as they are incompetent.  At any rate, it’s your money and your life, but I just think you deserve a company that is committed to you and your water as much as US Water Systems.  If you find one, that’s good, but if not, you can always come to us.

The History of Membrane Technology

Before talking about the new Pulsar Charged Membrane Filtration, it would b he helpful if we were to look at the history of membrane filtration.

Membrane technology is not a new technology in itself.  Membrane technology includes reverse osmosis (RO), Nano filtration (NF), Ultrafiltration (UF), and Microfiltration (MF). Absolute rated particulate filters also have one thing in common in that they all rely to some degree on media pore size. In cases, where the pores within the media structure develop an integrity breach or if a breach of the vessel seal takes place, the results can be high levels of microbial contaminants bypassing and the filter material as well as releasing contaminants to enter the clean water system! These high levels of microbes can be catastrophic.

There are many RO, NF, UF & MF filtration manufacturers making microbial claims for bacteria, virus and cyst reduction. Such reduction is normally expressed as a percentage or log reduction value (LRV) for the membrane (spiral, hollow fiber or pleated designs). Pleated particulate filters with an absolute rating of 0.1 – 1 micron may also make claims for microbial reduction.

However, the filter choices and performance often depends upon on the seal integrity within the filter vessel. Double Open End (DOE) or Single Open End (SOE) gasket cartridges on some brands of cartridges  may have very high efficiency capability but their reliance on a “knife” or pressure seal may not maintain appositive  seal sufficient to stop the migration of microbial contaminants due to pressure shifting or pulsations changes from varying flow rates, which can break the seal! Without a proper seal, microbial contamination is likely to occur right from the start. Cartridges using a knife or pressure seal do not have the tolerances sufficient to act as a microbial barrier.

Filter cartridges with a double O-ring seal such as a 222 or 226 (or similar design) that fit into a receiver, within the element vessel, and that provides an O-ring compression necessary to prevent by-pass are the type of filters that should be used.

Integrity of the Cartridge Itself

Now we come to another piece of the puzzle, the integrity of the membrane or particulate filter elements /cartridges. Virus size can be <0.02 um and if the membrane or filter element is not integral all is for naught as microorganism by-pass will surely result. NSF/ANSI Standards 42/61 are for material safety/structural integrity and they do not verify the membrane /element/cartridge are integral. NSF/ANSI Standards 42/61 will assure you that the product material is not imparting anything into the water, and is approved for drinking water treatment units. These Standards are for filtration efficiency issues. Even NSF P231 and P248 protocols, which test for microbial efficiency, are not testing integrity of the elements. NSF is now promoting their latest standard for municipal treatment technology for drinking water NSF/ANSI 419 Public Drinking Water Equipment Performance – Filtration.

Once again it is an efficiency driven standard for microbial LRV but not integrity verification of the elements/cartridges.  Why should we be concerned about the integrity of the filter? The same reason that Public water supplies will not give virus LRV credits to membranes without requiring a continuous integrity verification of the membrane/cartridges for every module typically every 15 minutes. Since this technology is not killing the organisms but merely filtering them, Regulatory Agencies are well aware that if any breach of integrity occurs

Public Water Systems are risking their customer’s health and well being. Death could even result for those having low immune deficiencies who receive a high dose of microbes from a possible breach in the element/cartridge or vessel designs.

Disinfection Technology Preferences

Chorine, Chloramine, Chloride Dioxide and high Dose UV (186mJ) are the preferred methods of disinfection preference in municipal markets. UV and Ozone are routinely used for bottled water and the food and beverage industries. Disinfection per EPA and State Regulations is defined as one or multiple treatment processes combined to provide a validated >= 4 LRV reduction of Bacteria, Virus and Protozoan cyst.

Therefore, anywhere that water is used for drinking, misting, cooling, washing vegetables or other potable water applications, one must be aware that if the water is not properly filtered, microbial contamination can cause food spoilage, cause illness, and liability for those selling, installing and using these devices. Therefore one must be certain that  any filtration devices has technology capable of providing the Log Reduction Values appropriate for the application.

Advancements in Electro-Adsorptive Technology

Electro-adsorptive technology is now commercially available that does not rely on pore size exclusion for high levels of microbial reduction and does not release the retained contaminants in an event of an integrity breach. The electro-positive charge captures/retains contaminants throughout the depth of the pore structure. This method reduces microbes via adsorption + mechanical filtration not simply pore size exclusion.

The electro-adsorptive charge provides a net adsorption efficiency of ~.002 um and mechanically with a mean pore size of approximately 1.2 microns. The charge field removes the negatively charged, submicron particles while larger particles are captured within the fiber structure of the media. This method reduces virus by > 4 LRV with a mechanical mean pore size of approximately 1.2 microns.

Electro-adsorption provides “retention” of the organisms through these charged structures within the media and small integrity breaches, which may occur, does not produce a catastrophic release of organisms. Mechanical pore dependent membranes and filters do not enjoy this benefit.

This filter media has over 400 layers of pore depth created by a wet laid non-woven manufacturing process. This results in a media having a torturous flow pattern, high flow rates at low pressure drop. The charge field results in a high initial removal efficiency as well as high loading capacity. This results in high energy saving. The CMF technology approaches Nano-filtration that requires very high psi inlet pressures.

This media has been sold commercially for years with great results. When used with appropriate and properly prefiltration for particulates provides sufficient life cycles between cartridge changes to satisfy all involved. With a cost comparable to MF and much less than RO/NF/UF membranes making it very competitive in the market place.

While the media performance is excellent it still requires good manufacturing practices and the integrity of the finished product is just as critical as membranes. This media requires manufacturing knowledge and experience as it can be difficult to pleat due to its 1 mm thickness and composite structure. A quality control procedure with 100% NDPT (Non Destructive Performance Test) or reverse bubble testing in alcohol solution is required at the production facility for every cartridge to insure the integrity.

Disposal Issues

Spent elements and cartridges that remove microbes become a bio hazard and without an antimicrobial additive to control these microbes cannot be disposed of as normal waste. This issue is most often overlooked and the elements and cartridges are typically disposed of in the trash. The Pulsar CMF filter is manufactured from a naturally occurring element called boehmite, which has no known Health Side Effects.  The filter is impregnated with Agion® Silver Zeolite Technology which protects filter and reduces tastes and odors from microbes.

Conclusion

Pulsar Charged Membrane Filtration or CMF is a disruptive technology.  It  is one that displaces an established technology and shakes up the industry or a ground-breaking product that creates a completely new industry. When the PC replaced the typewriter, it forever changed the way we work and communicate. Cell phones were “disruptive technology” because it allowed us to communicate from almost anywhere and the Pulsar Charged Membrane Filter System is “disruptive technology” in that a filter system can now remove the following contaminants:

• Bacteria (99.8%)
• Iron
• Virus (90-92%)
• Copper
• Cysts
• Lead
• Tannin
• Chromium VI
• Endotoxins (96%)
• Selenium
• Legeonella (99.9%)
• Tannic Acid
• Silica
• Humic Acid
• Heavy Metals
• Cryptosporidium
• Fulvic Acids

Charged Membrane Filtration or CMF is manufactured with Nano Alumina Fibers that have a Zeta potential of 51 millivolts. A CMF cartridge retains bacteria, virus, cryptosporidium oocysts and even tannin with its strong Zeta Potential. To removes cysts and bacteria, the flow rate is 10 GPM, but if you are removing tannin, the flow is 15 GPM.

How It Is Made

Unlike mechanical filters which rely on “pore size” the Charged Membrane Technology literally “secures” the contaminant. It is “absorbed” in a very real way. The filters have a long life and are easily replaceable.

Health and Safety

The CMF media is manufactured from a naturally occurring element called boehmite, which has no known Health Side Effects. In fact, boehmite has long been used as an additive to food products and digestive analgesics. Additionally, it has passed testing for NSF/ANSI Standard 42 and 61 for potable water and USP Class VI testing and endotoxin testing.

CMF media is engineered this 51 millivolt charge cover the entire volume and depth of the media. A CMF filter accomplished submicron filtration with a “charge” rather than “pore size” filtration, which allows for virtually zero pressure drop and high flow rates. If you compare the Pulsar CMF to “ultrafiltration” membranes, you will find dramatically higher flow rates with less pressure drop.

I received an e-mail today which said:

Hey Mark,

After reading a bunch of your info I realized, you guys keep refering your competitors very often. Just curious, who you so worried about??

Sincerely,
An Educated Consumer

To which I replied:

The sentence you wrote first is a fragment, but I am going to assume that you meant “After reading a bunch of your info I realized, you guys keep referring to your competitors very often.” 

Who are we so worried about?

An uneducated consumer!  If you are really an educated consumer, you should have figured that out.

We are worried about consumers being tricked by companies telling lies or half-truths. 

We are the Guardians of the Galaxy! 

I guess he/she was puzzled by my response.  This was their response:

I am not sure how to respond to your answer. My question was a legitimate question. I was hoping for a serious answer. You are the owner correct?

If you are reader, you know that I am sometimes funny, sometimes sarcastic and always passionate about our customers, so I wrote this back:

It is a legitimate question – I agree!

I am serious!  That’s exactly who we are concerned about – The Consumer!  What is not serious about that? 

Now, I admit that Guardians of the Galaxy wasn’t serious, but can’t we have fun too?

BTW, you know who I am, but I have no clue who you are as you can hide behind the anonymity of the web, so excuse me if I have my doubts.

Look, we are going to tell the truth here and maybe be funny at times, tongue-in-cheek at other times, but the consumer is our number one concern.  We care about people and their water and don’t like to see people taken advantage of.  If my writing style offends you, I am sorry, but let me remind you that you don’t have to read it!  I get lots of e-mails every day from consumers who were tricked, lied to or just plain mislead by other companies.  We are not the Guardians of the Galaxy – but we wish we could be!

Stay thirsty my friends!

Photo Credit: From the Movie Guardians of the Galaxy via Wikipedia

For about the last ten years salt-free water softeners have become the dream of many marketing companies.   It’s not like they haven’t always been out there – I’ve been in the water treatment business for 42 years and I have seen plenty of these types of companies come and go – but they are now here en mass.

I have often wondered why it seems that there are so many of these companies that have popped up lately.  It seems to me that it started with Easy Water, who at one time called their system a saltfree softener but later had the conscience to change the name to a salt free conditioner.  However, today if you Google Salt Free Softeners, you will come up with the following:

• Pelican Water Systems – America’s #1 Salt-Free Softeners
• Aquasana – SimplySoft Salt-Free Water Softener
• EvoClear – EvoClear Salt Free Softener
• Futura – Salt-Free Anti-Scale Water Softeners
• NuvoH2O – Get Softer Better Water – Guaranteed

There are also many other companies selling what are purported to be “salt-free water softeners” but these are the ones that consumers ask us about the most.  To be clear, the problem I have with these companies that they call their products “Salt-Free Water Softeners” when the definition of “Soft Water” is this:

• Hard water is water that has high mineral content (in contrast with “soft water”). – Wikipedia

• Water that does not contain high levels of dissolved solids such as minerals that make it hard to lather. Soft water lathers easily. – Black’s Law Dictionary

• Water containing little or no dissolved salts of calcium or magnesium, especially water containing less than about 85 parts per million of calcium carbonate.  – Your Dictionary

• Water that is free of magnesium or calcium salts. – Engineering Dictionary

• Water that is not hard (does not contain salts that interfere with the formation of lather with soap).  – Webster’s Dictionary

• Water lacking those ions, such as Mg2+ and Ca2+, that form insoluble salts with fatty acids, so that ordinary soap will lather easily in it. – MediLexicon 

• Softened water is “any water which has been processed in some manner to reduce the total hardness to 17.1 milligrams per liter (mg/L) or parts per million (ppm) (1.0 grain per gallon) or less expressed as calcium carbonate equivalent.” – Water Quality Association

So, it is widely established by multiple sources that “soft water” is water that is low on dissolved minerals.  Yet, none of the above-mentioned companies remove the minerals.  Let’s read what they say about the minerals:

• Pelican –  “Leaves in beneficial minerals”
• Aquasana – “prevents minerals from binding and forming scale”
• EvoClear – “Hard water (calcium and magnesium) is transformed into microscopic nano crystals that are suspended in the process.  When the calcium and magnesium become suspended, the hard water is unable to form scale or lime scale deposits while it travels through your home.”
• Futura –   “When water comes into contact with the catalytic surface of the media, hard water agents calcium (CaCO3) and magnesium become attached to the ceramic granules and are instantly converted into a scale resistant crystalline form.”
• NuvoH2O – “Our CitraCharge formula stops the mineral ions from causing hard water problems by making the typically troublesome minerals stay apart in the water, so instead of attaching to the metal in the pipes the water passes through. Since they’re bound, those minerals also freely wash away from your body, hair, dishes, pipes, fixtures, and appliances.“

It is surprising to me that they call it softened water but then admit they don’t take out the calcium and magnesium?  How can it be softened water when the minerals are not removed?  Some companies call it “Naturally softened water” which is pure unadulterated sales hyperbole which has no basis in fact.  Naturally softened water falls from the sky and is called RAIN!  Try a soap test with any of them and compare it to soft water – you will see the suds form and stay in soft water but not in the salt-free systems.

We get dozens of calls everyday asking us about this.  We also have a salt-free system (Green Wave) but we call it a conditioner, not a softener because it does not soften water.  It does condition it, but most of the benefits that you get with softened water are not benefits you will get with a salt-free system.  Things like spot-free glasses and dishes, whiter, brighter and softer clothes, and reduced soap usage are not benefits you receive with salt-free systems.  The main benefit is the reduction of scale.

So the question is, why do these companies persist in calling these “salt-free water softeners?”  Let me attempt to answer this.  The “baby boomers” are getting up in years and don’t like carrying salt, and it has become en vogue to ban softeners in some areas.  This is America – the land of opportunity and marketers see an opportunity to sell a salt-free softener, but if they called it a conditioner, would it be as easy to sell?  I doubt it!  In my opinion, the use of the word softener instead of conditioner is an attempt to deceive the consumer.  At the very least, it confuses them.

Earlier, I mentioned that these companies are “Marketing Companies.”  Do they have any Certified Water Specialists on staff?  Usually not.  Their focus is on salt-free systems.  Whatever you problem, a salt-free softener is your solution.  On the other hand, US Water System is a Water Treatment Company – we have nearly 10,000 products because no one product is the solution to everything.  If it filters, we call it a filter.  If it produces ozone, we call it an ozonator.  If it softens, we call it a softener and if it conditions, we call it a conditioner.  We don’t call a squirrel an elephant.  We call them what they are.

We are not a marketing company – we are a full service water treatment company with a dozen Certified Water Specialists on staff, the least of whom has at least seven years experience.  We have sales and tech support seven days a week and we are all about finding the right solution for your water, whether it be salt-free or not.  The fact is, a salt-free conditioner may or may not be right for you, but we can help you decide.  However, a salt-free softener is never right for you… because it doesn’t exist!

Personally, I think it’s time for the US Justice Department and State Attorneys General to investigate these claims and put a stop to them if they are deemed deceptive!  I had someone ask me last week “What company are you so worried about?”  I’m not worried about any company in particular.  I am worried about the consumers being mislead!